Everything You’ll Need
Tool Checklist: Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile
| Tool / Material | Ceramic Tile | Porcelain Tile | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tape Measure | ✔ | ✔ | Measure room size and tile space |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | ✔ | Mark center lines and guides |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | ✔ | Guide straight cuts and lines |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old floors |
| Spacers | ✔ | ✔ | Keep even grout spacing |
| Notched Trowel | ✔ | ✔ | Spread mortar on subfloor |
| Mixing Paddle & Drill | ✔ | ✔ | Mix mortar and grout right |
| Wet Saw or Tile Cutter | ✔ | ✔ | Cut tiles for edges and corners |
| Utility Knife | ✔ | ✔ | Trim underlayment or score board |
| Level | ✔ | ✔ | Make sure tiles are even |
| Grout Float | ✔ | ✔ | Press grout into joints |
| Bucket & Sponge | ✔ | ✔ | Clean tiles and remove grout haze |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | ✔ | Protect knees when on floor |
| Safety Glasses | ✔ | ✔ | Protect eyes when cutting |
| Gloves | ✔ | ✔ | Protect hands from sharp edges |
| Cement Backer Board (if needed) | ✔ | ✔ | Support tiles and resist moisture |
Optional (But Helpful):
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Rubber Mallet | Tap tiles gently without cracking |
| Tile Nippers | Make small, precise cuts |
| Grout Sealer | Seal grout to protect from moisture |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
Begin by taking off any baseboards and old flooring to reach the subfloor. This gives you a clean, even surface for your tile installation.
Use a pry bar to carefully remove the baseboards without harming the walls. If taking out carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into small pieces and remove all sticky parts. For old tiles, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to lift and take out the tiles and mortar.
Clean the Subfloor Well
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of all dust, dirt, and debris. A clean surface helps the mortar stick well and stops any flaws in your finished floor.
Check for Damage or Moisture
Look at the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven spots. Use a level to find dips or high spots.
- Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching compound.
- Uneven spots: Use a floor leveling compound to make a flat, stable base.
If on concrete, check for moisture with a moisture meter. High moisture can cause tile or grout problems, so fix any moisture issues before continuing.
Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)
Based on your subfloor type:
- Wood subfloors: Put down cement backer board for a stable, water-resistant base.
- Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation membrane or waterproofing membrane might be recommended sometimes.
Secure backer board panels as the manufacturer instructs, using the right screws and leaving gaps between panels.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Find the Room’s Center and Mark Guidelines
Start by finding the room’s center. Use a tape measure to locate the middle of each wall and draw chalk lines across the floor. The spot where lines cross is your starting point for laying tiles. This ensures your tile layout looks balanced.
Select Your Tile Layout Pattern
Simple patterns are best for beginners:
- Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles line up square with the walls, making neat rows.
- Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are set at a 45-degree angle for a dynamic look — a bit more challenging but still doable.
Note: Complex patterns like herringbone or chevron need advanced skill and aren’t advised for first-timers.
Dry-Fit Tiles to Check Alignment
Lay a few rows of tiles without mortar (called dry-fitting). This lets you:
- Check alignment and spacing.
- See how tiles will meet walls, cabinets, or doorways.
- Adjust to avoid thin tile pieces at edges (which can look awkward and crack easily).
Spacing and Grout Lines
Place spacers between tiles during the dry fit for even grout lines. Common spacer sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, depending on tile size and style.
Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)
Measure the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:
- Multiply the total by 1.10 (for simple layouts) or 1.15 (for diagonal or rooms with many cuts) to cover cuts, mistakes, and future repairs.
- Order this amount of tile to ensure you have enough for the project.
Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
For most tile flooring jobs—especially bigger spaces—thinset mortar is the best way to install. It makes a strong, long-lasting bond between tiles and the floor.
Common Methods:
- Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This cement-based glue is perfect for floor tiles. It manages weight, wetness, and temperature well. Many DIYers and pros use thinset because it’s durable and reliable. - Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Good for small DIY spots or wall tiles in dry places. It’s easier to use but not strong enough for most floors or wet areas.
Note: For floor tiling, thinset is usually the best and safest option.
| Installation Method | Best For | Strength & Durability | DIY Friendliness | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thinset Mortar | Floor tiles, wet spots (bathrooms, kitchens), big areas | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent) | Moderate | Standard for tile floors. Works well with wetness, weight, and movement. |
| Tile Adhesive (Mastic) | Small dry spots, wall tiles | ⭐⭐ (Limited) | Easy | Not good for floor tiles or wet spots. Faster to apply but less durable. |
Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor
Mix the Mortar
First, mix the thinset mortar by following the instructions on the package. Use a clean bucket and a mixing paddle attached to a drill for a smooth mix without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes, then stir it again before using.
Spread the Mortar
With a notched trowel, spread the mortar on a small part of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make even ridges. These ridges help the tile stick well and ensure the right thickness for a flat finish.
Work in Small Sections
Only cover as much area as you can tile in about 10–15 minutes. This keeps the mortar from drying before the tiles are placed.
Pro Tip:
Apply a thin layer of mortar on the back of larger tiles for better sticking, especially for tiles over 12 inches.
Step 5: Lay the First Tiles
Starting right will set up the whole project well.
Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Use chalk lines from your planning to start at the room’s center or your focus point. This makes sure tiles are spread evenly.
Set the First Tile
Put the first tile into the mortar. Press firmly and twist it a bit to help it stick.
Use Tile Spacers
Put spacers between tiles to keep gaps even for grout. This makes a neat, professional look.
Check for Level
After some tiles, use a level to make sure the surface is flat. Adjust if needed before the mortar dries.
Pro Tip:
Work in small areas so the mortar doesn’t dry before tiles are placed!
Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit
Accurate cutting is key for a polished, professional-looking finish.
Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to determine the size of the tile piece you need. Mark the cutting line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.
Choose the Right Tool
For straight cuts, a manual tile cutter works well.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut in a Safe Area
Always make cuts outdoors or in a well-ventilated space to avoid dust buildup. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection.
Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to reduce waste and ensure a perfect fit!
Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure
Once the first tiles are set, continue laying the remaining tiles row by row. Work outward from your starting point, placing each tile carefully with spacers to maintain uniform grout lines. Regularly check that tiles are level and adjust as needed to prevent uneven surfaces.
As you progress, avoid walking on newly set tiles to prevent shifting. Work in manageable sections to ensure the mortar doesn’t dry out before tiles are placed.
After all tiles are installed, allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer) before proceeding to grout. Proper curing is essential for a durable and long-lasting tile floor.
Step 8: Apply Grout
Once the mortar has fully cured, it’s time to grout the joints between the tiles:
Mix the Grout
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the grout to a smooth, peanut butter-like consistency.Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber grout float held at a 45° angle to spread the grout across the tile surface. Press firmly to ensure the grout fills all the joints completely.Remove Excess Grout
After filling the joints, hold the float at a steep angle and scrape away excess grout from the tile surfaces.Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then use a damp sponge to gently wipe the tile surfaces clean. Rinse the sponge frequently and avoid removing grout from the joints.Final Buffing
Once the grout begins to haze on the tile (after another 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff the surface and remove any remaining haze.
Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor
Remove Grout Haze
After the grout has dried (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy residue will appear on the tile surfaces. Use a damp sponge or specialized grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines.
Apply Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small applicator brush or a sealer bottle with a roller tip for precision. Allow the sealer to cure fully according to the product instructions.
Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall your baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different flooring types or rooms. This gives your new tile floor a polished, professional finish.
DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
While installing tile flooring yourself can save money, it’s not always the right choice for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a pro is best for you.
DIY Pros
- Lower upfront cost
- Flexibility to work at your own pace
- Great for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)
DIY Cons
- Requires time, precision, and specialized tools
- Mistakes can lead to costly repairs
- Challenging for complex layouts or large spaces
Professional Installation Pros
- Expert precision and long-lasting results
- Faster completion, especially for large areas
- Includes subfloor preparation, cutting, and cleanup
- Warranties often included
Professional Installation Cons
- Higher upfront cost
- Less control over timeline
Cost Comparison
Here’s what you can typically expect to pay:
| Installation Type | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft |
|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $2 – $8 (materials + rental tools) | $500 – $2,000 |
| Professional Installation | $8 – $25 | $2,000 – $6,250 |
👉 For a full breakdown, check out our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.
Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation
Want to get pro-level results from your DIY tile project? Keep these tips in mind:
- Save time by organizing tools and tiles before starting. Lay out tiles and tools within easy reach.
- Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts — especially for porcelain tiles.
- Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This prevents drying out before use.
- Check for level frequently with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
- Work in small sections. This ensures the mortar doesn’t dry before you place the tiles.
- Minimize breakage. Always cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring
Even experienced DIYers can make these common errors:
- Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can cause cracked tiles and uneven lines.
- Forgetting spacers. Inconsistent grout lines lead to an unprofessional look.
- Walking on tiles before the mortar cures. This can shift tiles and ruin alignment.
- Using too much or too little mortar. This can cause poor adhesion or tiles sitting unevenly.
- Not cleaning grout haze promptly. Leaving grout haze too long can make it very hard to remove.
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install tile flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a strong, beautiful surface that can last for decades. But if you’d rather leave the precision work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — to the pros, we’re here to help.
Our expert flooring installation team can handle every detail for you — from prepping the subfloor to carefully laying and sealing each tile — ensuring a flawless, long-lasting result. We’ll also help you select the right tile style and materials for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!
